Repairing A Chipped Windshield

I had a chip in my windshield and was planning to pay a professional to get it fixed.  I had a hard time getting time off from work to meet with a pro so I decided to do it myself.

I had done a repair years ago but that kit was not nearly as good as the ones I found recently.  For example, this Rain-X kit that I picked up at Walmart.  

This project was done on the fly so I didn't get a chance to take good pictures.  For example, I did not take any pictures of everything that came with the kit.  You can see the parts as I walk through the process though.

The Rain-X kit comes with a solution that hardens in the sun so make sure your windshield is cool and you are not in direct sunlight when starting this project.

The base has four suction cups that hold onto your glass.  Make sure it is on nice and tight.  The middle section is a screwed in "funnel".  In this picture, I showed the base, the funnel section and the screw in "plunger".  

Here is a closer look at the base.

Screw in the funnel section so that it sits flush and centered on the chip.  It should be tight enough so that the Rain-X solution does not flow out. 

You can see the chip in the picture below and how the base is centered over it.

Drip a few drops of the Rain-X solution into the funnel (instructions say 3-6 depending on the size of the chip).  Take the plunger and screw it into the funnel section.  This will force the solution into the chip. 

After about 4-5 minutes release the pressure from the plunger.  Take it off then screw it back in.  This will pull the air out of the chip and solution then force the solution deep into the chip. 

After you screw the plunger back in, check from the inside of the car to make sure the chip has been filled in and there is no air.  

Remove the whole kit and drip a few more of the solution onto the chip.  Put the attached clear strips over the chip and solution and move the car into the sunlight to harden.

After 5-10 minutes or when the solution has cured, remove the plastic strip and use the included razor blade to scrape off excess solution.

This is the finished product.  The kit was pretty good.  Much better than the one I used years ago.  I am sure a professional would have done a better job but in a pinch, this can be a good substitute.

I wish I had taken a before picture but the chip is barely visible in the picture below.

Of course, make sure you read and understand the instruction when use the kit.

Changing Nissan Versa's Wipers

Windshield wipers are an important and sometimes overlooked safety feature of a car.  We needed to swap out the windshield wipers on a 2011 Nissan Versa and document it for anyone who might feel intimidated by it.

We used Rain-X brand blades.  Sizes were 26 and 14.  If you have a different car, go to www.rainx.com for specific the sizes.  (On older cars, we sometimes upsized blades so that the wipers covered more of the windshield.)

The Nissan Versa uses "J-Hook" style arms to hold their wiper blades onto the arms.  

If you have not changed wipers before, you might have assumed that the blades come off by pulling them straight out.  In a hook style arm, you would push the blade back towards the arm so that you can clear the hook.

Most (if not all) wiper blades have a button or latch that holds the blade in place.  If you look at the picture below, the focused area shows the button for these blades.  Press that button and push the blade towards the wiper arm.

Installation is the opposite of the removal.  A good idea with any type of project like this is to do one part at a time so if you get stuck, you can use the other (unfinished) part as reference.  So if you do the passenger side wiper and you forgot how to replace it, go to the driver's side and use that as a reference.

Done...

It should be noted that there are two sizes of blades for this car.  Another good tip is to measure the new part with the old part to make sure the sizes are correct.  

2015 Maker Faire

If you enjoy home built projects, live in (or plan to visit) Oahu, and would like to see other people's projects, come to the 2015 Maker Faire at Iolani School's Sullivan Center on May 9th from Noon to 5PM.

The coordinators of the Maker Faire would like to get a "headcount" prior to the event so sign up on their website if you plan to go. - http://makerfairehonolulu.com/

Recycled Card Press Out Model

A friend gave me this fun little model that he picked up while travelling in the mainland.  

It is a Japanese card press out model of a car made of recycled paper.

Here are all of the pieces.  Complete with instructions.  

The instructions...  Basically the interlocking pieces are numbered.  The pieces are put together in numerical order.  You look for the two numbers that are the same and connect them together.

This bunny rabbit piece will eventually be a seat.  Notice the numbers on the pieces.

The sides are up!

Floorpan in.  Seats in.  Wheels in.  

And here is the completed car.  

My First Gundam

So for my first attempt at a Gundam model, I decided to try the RX-78-2 Master Grade.  From what I read online, this was the first model kit created by Bandai in the Master Grade level.  

Initially, I was thinking of doing a step by step walkthrough of building this model but I quickly saw that Gundam Models are more involved and complex than most automotive plastic models. 

Also, the instructions are in nihonjin.

So I opened the box, turned past the introduction information which (since my Japanese reading skills are horrible) I assumed were specs and history about the Gundam mecha, and started building.

One thing I noticed right away was the thought it took to develop this model is amazing.  Pretty much all the pieces have a purpose to them and they all have nice detail to them.  There was no glue required with any of these pieces too.

After about one hour of work, this is what I had.  I hadn't made any sort of plastic model in years so I had almost no tools.  I used a pair of scissors and my trusty Leatherman Wingman multitool.  Thats why some of the tabs are still showing.  

About three hours later I had a body and a head.  Notice the instructions behind the model.  If you build these for the first time, note that the parts frames are all lettered and numbered.  When you are building, the instructions will point to which frames you will need for each body part.  It also tells you which part is needed per section (ie:  A1 will mean stalk A, part number 1).

A few more hours of work and I had completed the Gundam's feet.  notice the parts stalk at the top of the picture.

The completed model.  The model came with multiple weapons as well.  

The whole process took about 6-7 hours.  If I had better tools, I am sure it would have come out better but it was more about the experience for me as this was my first attempt at a Gundam model.  I was surprised at how good the articulation in the moving parts were.  The detail is awesome as well.  In the end, you have what looks like a store bought toy created in a manufacturing plant.  

Normally I collect models and I do not open them.  In fact, I'm staring at an ae86 Corolla model that I have not opened for years.  I am glad I built this though.

Lego Star Wars - Ewok Village Edition

Last year, I got the Lego Star Wars Ewok Edition.  It was a generous gift from some of my close friends and it took me only 5 months to finally decide to build it.  A friend and I took about 6 hours of building to get this done.  This is more of a "what we built by following Lego's instructions" since there isn't much modifying that we had done.

The Ewok village came with almost 2000 pieces in 15 (or so) bags and documented in 3 (or 4?) instruction booklets.

First thing we did was put the packages in order.

Aaaaand the build begins.  Here are the first three pieces that were built.  

The far end is one of the speeder bikes that comes with the kit.  The other two nearest to the camera are from previous sets that my friend "modified".

One of the cool pieces that is part of this set is this working catapult.  

Wicket standing at the top of the first tree trunk that was built.

The first section that we completed.  I am always amazed at how innovative Lego is when creating these sets.  

This is the building of the floor of the ewok village.  Notice the black round piece on the top of the supporting tree trunk.  That allows you to spin the upper part of the tree when it is attached.  

It is Luke Skywalker with the famous green lightsaber!!  He claims he is a Jedi Knight now.

Luke modified his lightsaber and is causing trouble to the troopers below.  

Getting closer to being finished!  Check out Leia hanging out there.  

Chewie, always thinking with his stomach, gets caught in one of the ewok's traps.

A trooper testing out the build quality on the bridge.

The completed set with the extra speeders thrown in for looks.  Luke and Leia seem to be discussing something important. Maybe he is telling her that they are related and they shouldn't have kissed in the previous movies.

Lego ae86

Just wanted to post a quick picture of a lego Hachiroku (1984-1987 Corolla) he made for my birthday.

Sorry - no Initial D tofu sticker.

Hello World - Visual Studios

Quick post - Just did a quick Hello World! for VS.

1.  Signed up online for Microsoft Visual Studios and downloaded the Visual Studios Express 2013 edition.
2.  Installed the software - It had .Net dependencies so be prepared for possible extra stuff to install on your machine.
3.  Created a new project and took all of the defaults.
4.  Clicked Toolbox and dragged the button icon onto the Main Window.
5.  Double clicked the button you just dragged into the Main Window and the Button_Click code comes up.
6.  Typed the following text above the "End Sub" line:
                                          MessageBox.Show("Hello World!")
7.  Clicked Debug - Start Without Debugging.
8.  The Main Window will appear - Clicked the button and a popup comes up telling me....

Hello World!

Changing Nissan Versa's Blinker

Recently our Nissan Versa's blinker went out.  You can tell that it goes out because when you select the blinker (ie: left turn signal) it will blink really fast.  You can double check which is the bad light by arming or disarming the car to see which light does not go on (or selecting the blinker and looking at it from the outside).

As with any project, make sure you have a manual to make sure you are doing it properly and do your research.  Keep in mind that we aren't professionals.  

First things first...  Open the hood.  Pull the hood lever (second lever under the dash on the driver's side). 

The hood prop is on the top of the hood when you lift it up.

There is a plastic piece blocking the blinker light.  

It will be held down by a bunch of plastic clips.  Carefully pry it off with a slim screwdriver.  I think there were like 10 or so of them.

This is what the clip looks like when it is removed.

After removing the plastic piece look for the plug.  To remove it turn it counter-clockwise.

This is the bad bulb.  To remove the bulb, push it in and turn it.  It is spring loaded so it will come out easily when you push/turn it correctly.

This is the replacement light.  Replace it in the reverse order that you removed everything.

This was a pretty easy fix and its a good thing we didn't need to top off any of the blinker fluid as I hadn't picked any up prior to removing parts.